{"id":81377,"date":"2018-01-03T15:28:42","date_gmt":"2018-01-03T21:28:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.artofmanliness.com\/?p=81377"},"modified":"2021-09-25T13:45:01","modified_gmt":"2021-09-25T18:45:01","slug":"mans-guide-pea-coat","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/beta.artofmanliness.com\/style\/clothing\/mans-guide-pea-coat\/","title":{"rendered":"A Man’s Guide to the Pea Coat"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Vintage<\/p>\n

In 2016, the United States Navy announced that its blue wool pea coats — which had been in use for well over a century — would cease being standard-issue for Sailors. In 2018, a black synthetic parka would be phased in, and by 2020, while Sailors could continue to wear the pea coat as part of their uniform, they\u2019d have to purchase it with their own money.<\/p>\n

This news was met with disconcertion from several quarters. As the new synthetic parkas are slated to be made in Puerto Rico, congressmen disparaged the decision as ruinous for the woolen manufacturing industry in New England, where both the fabric and the coats themselves have been made for decades. At the same time, current and former Sailors defended not only the functionality of the pea coat, but its aesthetics as well, arguing that this classic, storied piece of outerwear was an irreplaceable symbol of nautical history and identity, as well as an incomparably handsome garment.<\/p>\n

Regardless of whether the Navy ultimately follows through with its decision, the pea coat\u2019s popularity as a civilian style staple will likely continue undiminished. Its combination of good looks and sturdy functionality has solidified its enduring, iconic place in the male wardrobe. <\/p>\n

If you’ve thought about adding a pea coat to your closet this winter, today we’ll discuss where this cold-weather garment came from, how to choose one, and how to wear it well. <\/p>\n

The Origins of the Pea Coat<\/h3>\n

\"Vintage<\/p>\n

The pea coat’s distinctive features — wool fabric, short length, slash pockets, double-breasted cut, big round buttons, tall collar, and large lapels — developed to meet the needs of sea-faring mariners. The indigo color of the coat hid grime and resisted fading, while the thick wool fabric proved durable to water, wind, and salt, stayed warm even when wet, and was naturally flame-retardant. Its high collar, along with broad lapels that could be flipped up and buttoned across the throat, added further warmth. The double-breasted design not only helped keep out the chill, but also came in handy as sailors shimmied up the ship\u2019s rigging; the extra fabric cushioned the skin against chafing, while the double rows of buttons, displaced to each side of the coat, allowed a rope to slide up the center of the torso without being snagged. Cold hands could quickly be stuck in the slit pockets situated at the center of the coat. And its hip-length cut allowed sailors’ ample mobility for maneuvering around the deck and performing nautical tasks.<\/p>\n

While the original functions of the pea coat\u2019s features are easy to surmise, exactly when and where they were put together into something resembling the garment we know today is less clear. There are many origin stories surrounding the pea coat, the most common being that an early version of the coat can be traced back to 16th<\/sup> century sailors hailing from the Netherlands; it\u2019s thought that its name derives from the Dutch word pijjekker<\/em> or pijjakker<\/em> — which referred to a jacket made from a heavy blue twill fabric.<\/p>\n

The pea coat was introduced as military wear by the British Royal Navy in the 18th<\/sup> century, and was first mentioned in a uniform manual in 1731. The U.S. made it part of its navy\u2019s uniform in the late 19th<\/sup> century. The coat carried both naval forces through two world wars, and as with many garments that began their lives as part of military uniforms, became readily adopted in civilian life as well.<\/p>\n

Why Wear a Pea Coat? <\/h3>\n

Pea coats today retain all the functionality that made them so prized by sailors of old. The shorter cut allows for ease of movement. The double-breasted front really wraps you up in warmth, while the wide lapels and high collar help keep out the frigid winter air. Plus, it\u2019s handy to be able to flip up the collar and lapels, and button them around your neck for even more cold-weather protection. The thick wool of a quality pea coat allows it to last for decades, and the fabric remains clutch in emergencies: wool has a higher ignition\/combustion point compared to many other fibers, is flame retardant up to 1,000 degrees, is self-extinguishing when removed from a flame, and won\u2019t melt on your skin like synthetic fabrics. So, the coat’s got your back if you have to run through fire (shipboard or on land) while wearing it, or if you need to take it off to smother some flames.<\/p>\n

At the same time, the pea coat embodies classic, handsome style. While it\u2019s a more casual coat, its tailored silhouette still evinces a little formality. Donning it makes any casual get-up you\u2019re wearing look more pulled together, and it can also be dressed up a bit, so that it easily transitions from work to weekend wear. As such, the pea coat makes for a wonderful, versatile alternative to the ubiquitous puffy ski coat.<\/p>\n

Who Should Wear a Pea Coat?<\/h3>\n

The pea coat is not quite as versatile as some styles of longer overcoat; its shorter length (you want your outerwear to extend past whatever you\u2019re wearing underneath) and more casual look make it less fitting for wearing over suits and blazers. So if you\u2019re going for a very minimal wardrobe, and think you only want to own a single overcoat, get a \u201cSwiss Army\u201d one as described here<\/a>.<\/p>\n

But it\u2019s certainly nice to have more than one winter coat in your closet, so that you can pick the one that\u2019s most fitting for the outfit\/occasion; and if you already have a longer, more formal overcoat in your closet, the pea coat makes for a good second option to accompany your casual wear.<\/p>\n

While the right style and fit of pea coat can theoretically work for any man, there are two groups for whom it is particularly well suited:<\/p>\n

Younger men.<\/strong> While the pea coat can work in one\u2019s 30s and beyond, it reads as a somewhat younger man\u2019s look, and it\u2019s a great pick for the 20-something\u2019s wardrobe<\/a>. It can be worn on campus to class, to the bar, and out on a date. As young men don\u2019t tend to dress up too often, this demographic could in fact get away with making the pea coat their one and only winter jacket.<\/p>\n

Men with average to slender physiques.<\/strong> Double-breasted garments are not well-suited to overweight men, as the extra, overlapped fabric adds bulk to an already ample midsection; this is true of suit jackets, and especially true of overcoats because of their thick fabric. The way the pea coat is cut — wide at the shoulders, coming in tighter at the ribs, and then flaring out beneath them — isn\u2019t flattering for the overweight man either, and will make him look even rounder than he already is. Because pea coats are cut a little closer to the body as well, they can be too constricting for men who are bigger in size not because they’re fat, but because they’re well-muscled. For larger men of either type, a longer coat will balance their upper halves, camouflage girth (in the case of the overweight), give the appearance of length and leanness, and generally look more proportional and aesthetically pleasing.<\/p>\n

For men of average to slender build, however, the pea coat fills out their body nicely and adds an attractive weight to their frame.<\/p>\n

How to Choose a Pea Coat<\/h3>\n
\"Double

Two good options for an American-made pea coat: (Left) Schott’s Classic Melton Navy Pea Coat<\/a> is made with 25% synthetic fiber, which is higher than ideal, but it’s well constructed and garners positive reviews. Right, Sterlingwear of Boston has been making pea coats for the Navy for decades and makes coats for civilians based on the same pattern and standards. Both a 100% wool and a cheaper 80% wool\/20% nylon<\/a> version are available.<\/p><\/div>\n

A quality pea coat can last for a long time, so consider investing in one that looks as good as it\u2019s made:<\/p>\n

Choose 100% wool — or up to a 20% synthetic\/wool blend.<\/strong> Traditionally pea coats were made with 100% wool — a fabric with many naturally amazing properties: durability, warmth, flame\/water\/stain\/odor resistance, breathability, and an insulating ability that keeps working even when damp. These days, new 100% wool pea coats are hard to find. But that\u2019s not necessarily a big loss. While it\u2019s often assumed that adding a synthetic fiber to wool creates an inferior fabric, fibers like nylon can enhance a coat\u2019s strength and durability, without significantly compromising wool\u2019s special qualities; a 100% wool coat and one with an 80% wool\/20% nylon blend are pretty comparable, and the latter will be cheaper. Once the fabric is more than about 20% synthetic fiber, however, the distinctive properties and feel of the wool will be diminished.  <\/p>\n

So get a 100% wool pea coat if you can, but don\u2019t exclusively concentrate on the purity of the fabric; its details and construction can matter as much as the breakdown of the fiber blend. Look for the wool that is<\/em> used to be Melton<\/em> wool (a thick, dense, felt-like fabric that is hard wearing and wind and weather resistant), the weight of the wool to be 24-32+ ounces (the heavier the weight, the warmer it will be), the entire coat to be lined, and the seams to be reinforced.<\/p>\n

Nail the fit.<\/strong> When you try on a pea coat, make sure you\u2019re trying it on over the kinds of garments you\u2019ll typically be wearing it with during the colder season; that is, if you\u2019ll be wearing the coat over thick sweaters, then try it on over a thick sweater rather than a t-shirt to ensure it will fit properly.<\/p>\n

Here are some things to look for regarding how the coat should fit; keep in mind that if it fits better in some areas than others, you can often have a tailor make adjustments:<\/p>\n