{"id":53861,"date":"2016-01-26T14:15:06","date_gmt":"2016-01-26T20:15:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.artofmanliness.com\/?p=53861"},"modified":"2021-06-02T14:25:52","modified_gmt":"2021-06-02T19:25:52","slug":"a-primer-on-the-ax-how-to-choose-the-right-ax-for-you","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/beta.artofmanliness.com\/leisure\/gear\/a-primer-on-the-ax-how-to-choose-the-right-ax-for-you\/","title":{"rendered":"A Primer on the Ax: How to Choose the Right Ax for You"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"A<\/a><\/p>\n

Last month we started a 3-part series on what is arguably the greatest and most versatile tool man has ever created: the ax.<\/p>\n

In our first installment<\/a>, we covered the history of the ax and why\/when you might choose to use one over a chainsaw, as well as offered an overview of the different kinds of axes and their anatomy.<\/p>\n

After reading that primer, you may have decided it was time you got an ax for yourself.<\/p>\n

The \u201cright\u201d ax for you is the one suited to your particular needs. But how do you know which one to pick? Once you start looking for axes on the market, you quickly realize that there\u2019s a seemingly infinite variety to choose from, and a whole lot of opinions as to which is best.<\/p>\n

To cut<\/em> through the clutter, I talked to ax expert Brett McLeod. McLeod is a lead instructor at the Adirondack Woodsmen\u2019s School<\/a> at Paul Smith\u2019s College, the author of The Woodland Homestead<\/a><\/em>, and the owner of a venerable first name. Below he\u2019ll help walk us through how to choose the \u201cright\u201d ax for you. <\/strong><\/p>\n

Considerations for Buying an Ax<\/span><\/h3>\n

\"Man<\/a><\/p>\n

Antique or New<\/h3>\n

The most important part of an ax is the head. To function efficiently, its bit must be sharpened to a keen cutting edge — thin enough to bite into the wood, but thick enough to resist chipping and breaking. And the ability to achieve this keen cutting edge is dependent on the quality of steel the ax head is made from. You can replace handles rather cheaply if they\u2019re crappy and break, but if your ax head is made of shoddy steel, there\u2019s not much you can do with it except sell it for scrap.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s for this reason Brett recommends rummaging through antique stores or barn sales to find an ax, rather than buying one new. \u201cTo make a good ax, the head needs to be made from steel that has the right amount of carbon in it. In the old days they were using high carbon steel.\u201d<\/p>\n

Nowadays, Brett says, most of the new axes that you\u2019ll find at the hardware store are made in China with metal that comes from \u201cmelted down cars, or industrial equipment, or whatever is going through the smelter that day.\u201d This type of low-quality steel tends to either be very soft, rendering it incapable of holding an edge, or very hard, making it prone to chip. This is why Brett advises folks \u201cto buy an old ax and fix it up.\u201d<\/p>\n

Buying an older, used ax will not only increase the chances of it having a primo head, it\u2019ll probably save you a lot of money too. You can find old axes at flea markets or antique stores, but Brett says the best place to the find them is in old barns — particularly the corners of old barns: \u201cOftentimes there’s a barn sale and someone hasn’t actually planned to sell the ax, but it’s sitting there in a corner. I just make an offer and the seller usually accepts. I’ve bought lots of axes that way.\u201d<\/p>\n

If you decide to buy an old ax, don\u2019t worry if the handle is shot to hell. Remember, the handle can be replaced cheaply and easily. It\u2019s the head that we\u2019re after. \u201cYou’re really interested in a good quality head that hasn’t had a lot of the metal chipped or ground off,\u201d says Brett. If the ax head just has some small chips or is a little rusty, that can be fixed and cleaned up. Don\u2019t be turned off by that. However, you\u2019ll want to pass on old ax heads that are worn down beyond repair. \u201cThe most common use or abuse you\u2019ll see in an old ax comes from using it to chop a root in the ground,\u201d Brett told me. \u201cThe top edge that’s called the toe of the ax, will oftentimes be worn right down to the point that nothing’s left. That can’t really be repaired.\u201d<\/p>\n

For more information about how to tell if an old ax still has life in it, and how to restore one to its former glory, read our in-depth article on the subject<\/a>.<\/p>\n

If you decide to opt for a new ax, Brett recommends avoiding the ones at the hardware store and instead only buying from a few select brands that have a reputation and history for putting out quality tools. A few brands that he recommended included Gransfors Bruks (made in Sweden) and Ox Head (made in Germany). Snow and Nealley is a Maine-based ax company that\u2019s also worth taking a look at. About ten years ago they quietly shifted ax head manufacturing to China and, consequently, their quality went down. After customers made a lot of ruckus, they moved manufacturing back to the US and things have improved.<\/p>\n

With all of these brands, you\u2019re going to pay a premium. But as the old saying goes, \u201cBuy once, cry once,\u201d meaning you\u2019re better off spending a lot upfront for quality than constantly having to fix and fuss over a crappy ax that doesn\u2019t perform as well when put to work. Look to spend at least $150 for a boy\u2019s ax (this refers to a size even grown men can use — more on this below) and up to $400 for a full-sized felling ax.<\/p>\n

Single Bit or Double Bit<\/h3>\n

At the end of my first article about axes, I argued that for most guys, a single-bitted ax is the way to go. While it is the most common household ax, according to (the other) Brett, if you\u2019re looking for the most bang for your buck, get a double bit. \u201cIf I could carry one ax I would probably carry a double bit,\u201d Brett told me.<\/p>\n

While the single-bitted ax can certainly cut faster because of the added weight that comes with the poll (the end of the ax head opposite the blade), Brett recommends the double bit for its more balanced swing and versatility. Its balance is due to the fact that both ends of the head are of equal length and weight. Consequently, when you swing a double-bitted ax there\u2019s less wobble, which means more accuracy, which in turn leads to more efficient cutting. Control<\/em>, rather than power, is the real key to chopping wood.<\/p>\n

And because a double-bitted ax has two cutting edges, it opens up opportunities to create multiple cutting edges for different needs. So instead of having several kinds of single-bitted axes for various kinds of tasks, you could just have one double-bitted ax. As Brett explains, \u201cYou can have one bit that you can do dirty work with (limbing, cutting roots), and the other bit for felling,\u201d or \u201cyou can file one side for cutting soft wood, and the other side for cutting hard wood.\u201d<\/p>\n

Besides providing multiple cutting options within a single ax, a double bit can also serve as a \u201cplay\u201d ax. At the Adirondack Woodsmen School they play lumberjack games, including ax throwing. \u201cYou can\u2019t throw a single-bitted ax because it\u2019s not balanced. It won\u2019t spin in the air,\u201d says Brett. But because a double-bitted ax is <\/em>balanced, it\u2019s perfect for throwing. Thus, a double-bitted ax can be both your work and <\/em>play ax. Even more versatility from an already versatile tool!<\/p>\n

While Brett extolled the virtues of the double bit, he did emphasize that whether you go with a single bit or double bit is a matter of preference. One thing to keep in mind (as we\u2019ll see in our next article) is that because it has two cutting edges, double-bitted axes require a bit more situational awareness and safety consciousness than the single bit variety.<\/p>\n

Weight of the Ax Head<\/h3>\n

Another factor you\u2019ll want to consider when selecting an ax is the weight of the head. \u201cMost guys want the heaviest ax possible because it produces more force. It\u2019s why we\u2019re using ax heads that weigh six, six and a half, and even seven pounds in cutting competitions,\u201d says Brett. But for the beginning ax-man and for everyday use, Brett recommends using an ax head that weighs no more than five pounds. While the heavier ax heads provide more force, you lose accuracy in your swing.<\/p>\n

Many experts recommend starting off with a 3-lb head on a full-size ax and a 2-lb head on a \u201cboy\u2019s ax.\u201d As you get stronger and more experienced with the tool, you can bump up in weight.<\/p>\n

Length of the Handle<\/h3>\n

While most men would prefer an ax with a longer handle because it allows you to swing with more force, Brett says that it\u2019s actually better to go with a handle that\u2019s shorter than you\u2019d think you\u2019d need. \u201cThe longer the ax handle the more force you could deliver theoretically, but there comes a point in that length where you’re not able to control it as well, and so it doesn’t matter how much force you have because you lose things like the proper presentation of the ax bit to the wood.\u201d You\u2019re looking for the sweet spot between force and accuracy, and for the beginning ax-man in particular, shorter handles will offer the control needed for efficient cutting.<\/p>\n

The length of a handle is typically (but not always) measured from the top edge of the ax down to the knob at the bottom. Handles come in two standard lengths — full-sized (or felling) and \u201cboy\u2019s ax.\u201d<\/p>\n

The standard length for the handle of a felling ax is 36\u201d, but Brett says that\u2019s even too long for most men. Instead, he recommends a 31\u201d handle for your average six-foot-tall male. This length will provide you with both force and control.<\/p>\n

While many men are intent on getting a full-sized felling ax because of its storied history, if you\u2019re not planning on using it to split firewood<\/a> (a job for which a maul is really better suited) or doing lumberjack competitions and heavy forest work, Brett actually recommends getting an even shorter \u201cboy\u2019s ax\u201d handle. Despite the name, its 28\u201d length is appropriate and even ideal for the average grown man. Sure, the boy\u2019s ax doesn\u2019t have the same \u201coomph\u201d as its full-sized brother, but for most chores a suburban man would do around his home or out in the woods camping, it will get the job done, and allow you to swing with more control. You can get both single-bitted and double-bitted axes with a boy\u2019s-length handle.<\/p>\n

Handle Material<\/h3>\n

\"An<\/a><\/p>\n

A lot of the ax handles you\u2019ll find at the big box hardwood stores are made from plastic, but Brett says you always want to go with a handle that\u2019s made from wood. Specifically, hickory or ash. Brett\u2019s preference is hickory, but ash will work just fine.<\/p>\n

After you\u2019ve ascertained the handle is made from hickory or ash, you\u2019ll want to inspect the grain direction of the wood, as well as growth-ring width and quantity.<\/p>\n

Ideally the grain of the ax handle should run parallel to the bit of the ax. Handles with grain that runs perpendicular to the bit tend to be weaker and may snap when you strike a tree.<\/p>\n

The growth rings in the handle\u2019s wood should be tight, numerous, and narrow. Wood with this pattern is much stronger than wood with fewer, broadly-spaced growth rings.<\/p>\n

\"An<\/a>

Another thing to look at regarding the handle is how well it was hung, or mounted to the ax head.<\/p><\/div>\n

Curved or Straight Handle <\/strong><\/h3>\n

As we discussed in our first article, ax handles are either curved or straight. Most single-bitted felling axes have curved handles. If you go with a single bit, Brett recommends the curved handle: \u201cSwinging an ax with a curved handle feels a little more natural.\u201d<\/p>\n

If you go with a double-bitted ax, your only option is a straight handle, as it\u2019s the only kind they\u2019re made with. If the handle wasn\u2019t straight, you wouldn\u2019t be able to flip the ax around to use the other bit.<\/p>\n

No Varnished or \u201cArtisanal\u201d Handles<\/h3>\n

Brett noted that when you buy axes from the hardware store, the handles are likely going to be varnished. If that\u2019s the case, Brett recommends taking some sandpaper and elbow grease and sanding the varnish off. \u201cVarnish just makes the handle slippery. If you’re using the ax with wet hands, the ax can go flying right out of your hand. You really want to be able to feel the handle and control it, and a little bit of friction is good for ax control.\u201d The only downside with unvarnished handles is that you can develop blisters on your hands, but Brett says with time, you\u2019ll develop some calluses that\u2019ll solve the problem.<\/p>\n

While he didn\u2019t mention it specifically, this bit of advice would also seem applicable to the \u201cartisanal\u201d axes out there that have painted handles, ala the Best Made Co. The painted parts would likely slip more in your hands, though such axes are largely purchased as decorative pieces rather than working tools anyway.   <\/strong><\/p>\n

Conclusion<\/h3>\n

For such a simple tool, there\u2019s a lot to consider when purchasing an ax. But if you take the time to find the right one for you, you\u2019ll have a tool that will provide a lifetime of useful service. Heck, if you take care of it, you can even pass it on to your son, and he to his son.<\/p>\n

In our conclusion to this series on the ax, we\u2019ll discuss how to swing an ax and use one safely. Until then, keep your bit sharp and stay manly!<\/p>\n

Read the Series<\/h3>\n

History, Types, and Anatomy of the Ax<\/a>
\nHow to Choose the Right Ax for You
\nHow to Use an Ax Safely and Effectively<\/a><\/p>\n

__________________<\/p>\n

Illustrations by Ted Slampyak<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

My thanks to Brett McLeod for his tips and advice. If you’re interested in learning lumberjack skills while earning college credit, be sure to check out the Woodsmen’s School<\/a> at Paul Smith College!<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Last month we started a 3-part series on what is arguably the greatest and most versatile tool man has ever created: the ax. In our first installment, we covered the history of the ax and why\/when you might choose to use one over a chainsaw, as well as offered an overview of the different kinds […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":53872,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[6,42278,42276],"tags":[],"yst_prominent_words":[],"class_list":["post-53861","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-featured","category-gear","category-lifestyle"],"featured_image_urls":{"large":"https:\/\/content.artofmanliness.com\/uploads\/2016\/01\/head-538x206.jpg","reactor-320":"https:\/\/content.artofmanliness.com\/uploads\/2016\/01\/head-320x120.jpg","rpwe-thumbnail":"https:\/\/content.artofmanliness.com\/uploads\/2016\/01\/head-45x45.jpg"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/beta.artofmanliness.com\/app-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/53861","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/beta.artofmanliness.com\/app-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/beta.artofmanliness.com\/app-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/beta.artofmanliness.com\/app-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/beta.artofmanliness.com\/app-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=53861"}],"version-history":[{"count":29,"href":"https:\/\/beta.artofmanliness.com\/app-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/53861\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":174123,"href":"https:\/\/beta.artofmanliness.com\/app-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/53861\/revisions\/174123"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/beta.artofmanliness.com\/app-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/53872"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/beta.artofmanliness.com\/app-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=53861"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/beta.artofmanliness.com\/app-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=53861"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/beta.artofmanliness.com\/app-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=53861"},{"taxonomy":"yst_prominent_words","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/beta.artofmanliness.com\/app-json\/wp\/v2\/yst_prominent_words?post=53861"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}