{"id":12433,"date":"2010-09-16T23:49:28","date_gmt":"2010-09-17T04:49:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/artofmanliness.com\/?p=12433"},"modified":"2021-06-10T13:03:23","modified_gmt":"2021-06-10T18:03:23","slug":"man-blazer-jacket","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/beta.artofmanliness.com\/style\/clothing\/man-blazer-jacket\/","title":{"rendered":"A Man’s Primer on the Blazer Jacket"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Vintage<\/p>\n

Incredibly versatile, a navy blazer is one of the core garments a man should own if he lives in a large city, near the water, or has a lifestyle where the wearing of suits and sports jackets needs to be bridged.  A blazer should always be matched with odd trousers (never a fabric too similar) and is not a substitute for a suit; rather, it is meant to fill the void between a business suit and casual dress.  Technically, blazers are more formal than light colored or rough weave sport jackets and about on par with a suit worn without a tie and loafers.  A blazer is at home dressed up with a tie and dark slacks and is a natural dressed down with an open collar striped dress shirt, white trousers, and boat shoes.<\/p>\n

Blazer Jacket History<\/strong><\/h3>\n

The story behind the men’s blazer jacket is a muddled one.  Today what we generally call a blazer jacket is actually the offspring of two distinct jacket styles, one being double breasted and having a British military origin while the other is single breasted having evolved from the jacket worn at rowing clubs.  From 1870 to 1950 there are about 10 different stories that I know of as to how the blazer became a classic – I’ll bore you with none of these.  What I can tell you for certain is that the blazer jacket has been serving men for over 100 years, is a style that has been approved of and worn by kings, and because of its naval history evokes a feeling of nautical adventure in its presentation.   The modern blazer is a hybrid of this heritage \u2013 it can be found in single or double breasted styles, is often cut from a wide range of colors, utilizes a variety of buttons and patches, and is used by businessmen, sportsmen, and school children to signify belonging and placement in society.<\/p>\n

Blazer Jacket Style<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Blazers come in all types; for this article I will give you an overview of the traditional \u201ccountry\u201d styles.  However, it\u2019s important to note that an Italian can ask his English tailor to make him a jacket in the American style\u2026\u2026in other words travel and fluid borders have made it so that these distinctions have less to do with location.  Instead, these country styles serve as more of a historical guide on what was and is still possible to create.  But hybrids incorporating a mix of the below characteristics are common and often even preferred.<\/p>\n

American Style Blazer – <\/em>The traditional American style blazer is normally a 2 button navy blue jacket with soft shoulders.  The jacket’s pockets can either be patch or flap pocket, with the lapel style being notch.  Normally you\u2019ll see a center vent here, although I encourage men to choose a double vent as it flatters more body types.<\/p>\n

English Style Blazer – <\/em>English style blazers vary from their American counterparts in that they are built around more structured shoulders with a suppressed waist (assuming the man in question is of the right build).  They build out the chest a bit more and have less of a box shape.  Made in either a single or double breasted style, the English style blazer will have a double vent and if double breasted always peak lapels.  The single breasted version will have notch lapels and most likely 3 buttons but possibly 2.<\/p>\n

\"Men

Single-Breasted American Style vs. Double-Breasted English Cut<\/p><\/div>\n

Italian Style Blazer – <\/em>The Italian style blazer varies from the other two in that the fabric selected is lighter weight, and the entire jacket build is much less structured.  Extremely soft shoulders and a flexible but gently constructed inner lining allow the jacket to float next to the wearer\u2019s body.  Vented or unvented, 3 buttons or 2, the Italian jackets have more flair and are a reflection of their wearer\u2019s personality and quirks.<\/p>\n

Blazer Buttons<\/strong><\/h3>\n

The most noticeable detail on a blazer jacket, blazer buttons<\/a> can range from delicate smoked mother of pearl buttons to heavy solid gold family heirlooms passed from father to son.  Most manufacturers will make their jackets with simple generic brass buttons; although many never change these, a man in the know can easily turn one jacket into many by simply having a few sets and changing the buttons out with the seasons.  Mother of pearl for spring & summer, silver for fall, and gold for winter.<\/p>\n

\"Blazer

3 Various Blazer Buttons<\/p><\/div>\n

Blazer Fabric<\/strong><\/h3>\n

Blue worsted Serge is the classic blazer fabric, although any navy worsted or flannel wool is a classic choice.   Rougher weaves or fabrics with a slight pattern technically transform the jacket from a blazer to a blue sportcoat, but the distinctions are blurred by most, and I have to admit my favorite \u201cblazer\u201d uses a blue glen check fabric that I love.  Besides navy, blazers also come in bottle green here in the United States and lighter colors across the world.<\/p>\n

How a Blazer Jacket Should Fit<\/strong><\/h3>\n

A blazer should fit in the same fashion a suit jacket and sport coat should.<\/p>\n